Day 1: Arrival & First Impressions
The moment we stepped off the plane, and made our way through Ben Gurion airport, we saw the photos of all the hostages still left in Gaza. It was a stark reminder of why we had felt the pull to come to Israel. We checked into the Vera hotel and immediately set off exploring Neve Tzedek. Wandering through the charming streets, we picked up a few little bits and bobs before settling into a lovely, outdoor café.
As we sipped our first coffee in Israel, we paused to appreciate the moment as we began this special trip together.
From there, we strolled along the beach to Yafo, taking in the sea breeze and appreciating the natural beauty of the sunset. Dinner was simple but perfect, a delicious cheese plate and some Middle Eastern snacks.
Later, we took a taxi to Hostage Square, where we met our Israeli friends who volunteer weekly to support hostage families. Walking through the square was surreal. We had seen the exhibits on TV for months, but being there in person was something else entirely.
We did a virtual reality experience that had been put together with testimonies from released hostages. The headset put us in a dingy room with a hostage mother, her child, and an injured man. The sounds of terror filled the space. A girl’s screams came from a nearby room.
Suddenly, the terrorist re-entered, locking eyes with us. It was only five minutes, but I, (Julia) was so overwhelmed that I had to pull off the headset as tears fell. A kind woman handed me a glass of water, trying to calm me. The experience was beyond intense. In contrast, Mandy felt such anger she felt compelled to lock eyes with the terrorist, enduring the five minutes, though it felt so much longer!
We ended the night in Nahalat Binyamin with our Israeli friends, indulging in the most incredible cheesecake brûlée. A sweet end to a heavy day.
Day 2: Witnessing History Firsthand
Our day started early with the incredible Amit, a Nova festival survivor, our tour guide, who met us at a nearby bus stop. As we picked up the rest of our small group, we prepared ourselves for a profound journey to the south of Israel, to bear witness to the horrific events of October 7th.
If you’re visiting Israel, we highly recommend a tour of the Gaza envelope with Amit Musaei. His deep knowledge of the history and geopolitics of the area set the tone for what was to come. Standing at a lookout point over Gaza felt surreal. It’s one thing to read about rocket attacks, but another to be in a place where people have just 12 seconds to find shelter after the sound of a siren.
We visited Sderot’s police station, where 72 people were tragically killed that day. The Chabad Centre was also attacked by an RPG on October 7th, yet by October 8th, Chabad had transformed their centre into a supermarket and pharmacy to support the devastated community. In local playgrounds, we saw how bomb shelters are designed as play equipment, an attempt to make survival part of daily life for children.
At the Nova festival site, Amit shared his harrowing personal experience from that day and the story of his survival. We walked around the festival site reading about all the young individuals that were killed that day; young, peace-loving people who were there to party, dance and enjoy themselves. Amit spoke of his friends who were murdered, and we honoured their memory, sharing a glass of Arak with Amit.
Later, we visited the car graveyard with rows of burned-out vehicles, eerily reminiscent of our visit to Auschwitz. It was hard to process: a modern-day pogrom and massacre of the Jewish people.
We ended the day at Shuva Achim, a respite stop for soldiers along Route 232. We met one of the brothers running this incredible place, where over 600 soldiers receive hot meals daily. One soldier told us that after three weeks in Gaza, he stops here to decompress before he can even face going home. Amit guided us through so much more than a tour. He shared his pain, his resilience, and his love for Israel. We left feeling that bearing witness was not just important, but necessary.
Day 3: Community & Reflection
We began the morning at The International Synagogue on Frishman Street, making challah while praying for hostage, Bar Kuperstein. The Rabbi wore Bar’s Tefillin, leading prayers and inviting men to wrap them in his honour.
Next, we headed to Yafo for a massive volunteering event—writing messages and making mishloach manot for soldiers. The energy was incredible with music, joy, and a shared sense of purpose.
Before Shabbat, we wandered through the buzzing Shuk Ha’Carmel, picking up some delicious halva for later, before heading back to the International Synagogue for a beautiful Kabbalat Shabbat service. Dinner with friends was lovely with rich conversation around how, and if, Jews in the diaspora really understand the trauma that Israelis are facing.
Day 4: A Mix of Rest & Reality
True to our characters, Julia enjoyed a well-deserved lie-in while Mandy joined a rooftop yoga class. After a delicious breakfast in the hotel courtyard, we spent hours soaking up the sun at Banana Beach, joined by our friend’s daughter who had made Aliyah just prior to October 7th 2023. Seeing her so happy and settled in Israel was heartwarming.
After lunch, we strolled along the beach, enjoying live music and the relaxed, sun-drenched atmosphere.
A conversation with another Israeli friend and a voice of reason, helped us to understand the many different views and perspectives of Israeli society, and their feelings towards Jews outside of Israel post October 7th. How can we, in the diaspora, truly understand the trauma that Israeli society has experienced and the impact it continues to have on their daily lives?
As evening fell, we were reminded of this ever-present tension in Israel.
Heading toward Hostage Square, we found ourselves in the midst of an enormous march with thousands of people demanding the immediate release of the hostages. Flags waved, banners filled the streets, and chants rang out: “You are not alone! We are with you!”
At Hostage Square, families and released hostages pleaded with Netanyahu to bring their loved ones home. Even without understanding all the Hebrew, the emotion, pain, and resilience were palpable.
The demonstration ended with Karina Ariev, a released female soldier, making an impassioned plea for the 59 hostages still in Gaza. The crowd stood and sang Hatikva, ‘Hope’. It was a sobering end to an otherwise peaceful day and a stark reminder that Israel is still living in this nightmare.
Day 5: Taking It All In
Our last morning started with another incredible breakfast before taking a taxi to Tel Aviv Port. From there, we embarked on a stunning 90-minute walk along the new boardwalk to Herzliya, where we sipped fresh orange juice by the sea, soaking in our final moments of sunshine.
As we boarded our flight home, we were overwhelmed by the sheer intensity of the past five days. The emotions, the stories and the experiences. It felt like a rollercoaster, an overload on all our senses.
We sat at the airport, savouring one last cheese boreka stick, reflecting on what had been one of the most powerful and unforgettable trips of our lives.
We were lucky to share it together.
Julia Alberga
Wellbeing Manager at PaeS
